The beads I use in my rosaries and bracelets fall into several categories:
Czech crystal beads
Also known as “Czech glass beads” as not all of them are technically lead crystal. Round faceted Czech beads are the most traditional rosary beads; the faceted edges of antique and vintage beads have often been worn down from use so that the beads no longer sparkle.
Normally I use Preciosa brand beads (the leading mass-producer of Czech beads) or beads from smaller manufacturers. The most famous producer is Swarowski, which has a patented secret formula for their brillant crystal and produces the greatest variety of colors and shapes. Swarowski crystals also have a correspondingly high price tag, so I do not stock them, but will special order them for a custom piece if desired.
Authentic stones
These are beads which are warranted to be the real stones, and are either a bead-grade of a gemstone (i.e., the excellent-to-good specimens were cut as faceted gems, while the rest of the material was cut and polished into beads) or a “semi-precious gemstone” that has been cut and polished, and sometimes enhanced for stability or color. Garnets, amethysts, beryl (morganite and emerald), and aquamarine are “precious” gemstones in this category; peridot and agate fall into the enhanced category.
Imitation stones
Imitation stones are clearly indicated, and are usually of two types:
— specially-produced beads of natural materials formed into a look-alike bead. An example is “Fire cherry quartz” which is a manmade quartz colored with various minerals to mimic watermelon tourmaline.
— a natural stone, often jadeite or marble, that has been dyed and/or heat-treated to create a look-alike for a more-expensive stone or to enhance the color or clarity of the stone. I have noted these as “[stone-name]-colored jadeite/marble)” or by their trade name with an explanation (“rutilated quartz” is real quartz that has been heat-treated).
Pearls
I use several types of pearls:
“Real” pearls are those that are the product of a mollusk, whether the process is started by man’s intervention (cultured pearls) or is natural (“natural pearls”. Potato pearls are real freshwater pearls, almost always cultured, that have a more flat-ended oval shape and are drilled sideways (along the short axis).
“Shell pearls” are beads of mother-of-pearl and/or the inside shell of oysters which are coated with ground pearl nacre and dyed, then heat-sealed. (Each manufacturer has their own trade-secret coating and dye process.) They have the same weight and sheen of real pearls but are more resistant to chipping and to discoloration by lotions and hairspray.
“Imitation pearls” are glass or acrylic beads coated with an iridescent coating and then dyed. The best imitation pearls are Swarowski or Crystazzi brand “Crystal Pearls”, which are supposed to be nearly as resistant to chipping and discoloration as real pearls.
Tensha Beads
Tensha are Japanese beads that have an acrylic core covered with painted designs of the same type as porcelain china, which are applied as water-based decals. On china, the china pieces with the applied paintings is then fired to permanently fuse the paint into the china, while tensha are permanently sealed. Tensha are lightweight and yet very strong.
Lampwork Beads
These are blown-glass beads incorporating real silver and/or gold in them as well as various minerals to create the colors. These are heavier beads than tensha or polymer clay, and as hand-blown beads have some variation in shape and size.
Polymer-Clay Beads
Polymer clay is a fired clay which produces a lightweight but strong bead. These beads can mimic real materials or create ‘fantasy stones’ in color combinations not seen in nature such as ‘fantasy opal’. They can also use millifiori techniques such as caning to create millifiori-style and lampwork-style beads.
About the Names of Stones
In the United States, there are strict expectations on the usage of gemstone names and descriptions which are not present in the rest of the world. I make every attempt to buy beads from reputable suppliers, to know exactly what they are, and to represent them correctly; however, sometimes it is just not possible to know (particularly with vintage beads). I will always give you the best information I have available.